What is
Ruggedization?
Introduction
We designed our Japanese swords to be as traditional as possible while being a fitting tool for a wide range of training practices including steel fencing. However, the traditional hilt and wrapping on Katana and related swords was intended to be a consumable item. Traditional hilts regularly require maintenance, re-wrapping, and eventually replacement. For many Japanese sword artists, the care and maintenance of a sword is an important part of the practice and character of the arts.
In the modern steel fencing world, we recognize that the maintenance that comes with the trappings of tradition might not be for everyone and some of our customers may want to compromise the traditional ways for something a bit sturdier. So, we developed a method for taking our traditional sword hilts and transforming them. The result is a hilt that requires nearly no maintenance but can no longer be easily removed, modified, and worked on.
A Ruggedized Hilt has the following basic features.:
- Hilt removed and reset with heavy duty epoxy.
- Bamboo pins replaced with brass pins also fixed with epoxy.
- Handle wrap and knots are saturated with polyurethane to fix and harden.
Akado is happy to ruggedize any traditional Japanese hilt in our shop for you before your swords ship out. Just select the “Ruggedized” option when putting your sword in the cart.
DIY Ruggedization
If you’re the type that likes to work on your sword yourself, below we’ve detailed our process for ruggedizing weapons for anyone who would like to improve the durability of their swords. We do this process by hand, and it will spoil the pristine look of your hilt.
Materials
- Rubber Mallet or Hammer
- 5mm or 3/16” Punch
- Epoxy Adhesive, such as JB Weld
- Disposable Applicator for Epoxy
- Polyurethane
- Brush
Disassembly
First, carefully disassemble the sword.
- Using the metal punch, firmly but carefully manipulate the Tsuka Ito (hilt wrapping) so that the mekugi (wooden pins) are fully visible on both sides of the tsuka.
- Secure the sword and gently tap on the metal punch with a rubber mallet or hammer until the mekugi pins exit the other side of the tsuka. If the mekugi resist, check to see that the ito has not slipped back over the pin on the other side of the tsuka.
- With the mekugi pins removed, the tsuka should slide off the tang. You may need to manipulate the tsuka by lightly tapping on the tsuba with a rubber mallet, or firmly grasping the tsuka and pushing against the tsuba with your thumb until the tsuka releases. Set tsuka aside.
- Remove the seppa (decorative spacers on top and bottom of tsuba) as well as the tsuba.
Epoxy
Here, we reassemble the sword, using industrial epoxy to secure the fittings permanently together.
- Mix your chosen epoxy according to the package instructions.
- Secure the blade tip down on scrap wood or similar material.
- Place the first seppa down over the tang and apply a thin layer of epoxy using a wooden applicator.
- Place the tsuba down over the tang and press firmly into the epoxy on the seppa. Apply additional epoxy, filling in gaps between the tsuba and tang.
- Apply a light coating of epoxy to the second seppa and slide it down over the tang, pressing it firmly into the tsuba.
- Apply a thin layer of epoxy on both sides of the tang. Be sure to apply a liberal amount inside the holes of the tang to secure the new pins later.
- Apply a thin layer of epoxy on the top of the tsuka.
- Slide the tsuka over the tang and press firmly into the seppa at the base of the tsuba.
- Press the new brass pins into the holes to secure the tsuka to the tang. Use the wooden applicator or a toothpick to smooth out extra epoxy and fill any gaps.
Seal
Finally, in a well-ventilated area, use a brush to thoroughly saturate the tsuka ito with polyurethane. This will harden the fibers and lock in the knots, helping to prevent any loosening of the fittings from heavy blows.
Allow the fittings to dry for 24 hours.
If you have any questions about the process, let us know!